Charly seahorse amigurumi

6,50 USD (+ taxes if applicable)



#charlytheseahorse is a free pattern now too! 🙂

You can still buy the pattern as a pdf download link in my ravelry shop (see buy now option above) or just scroll down below and work from here, the pattern is the same, a download would just easier to work from (you can print, you can save, you’ll have it in your ravelry library always, you could say thank you to me for the time and brain and heart I put into my designs 🙂

Charly is a seahorse and seahorses are also known as hippocampus and they live in tropical and temperate waters throughout the world.

They are very unique fish, not only do they not look like fish in general, they also swim upright instead of horizontally like other fish. Another crazy fact about them is that the males give birth to their descendants.

Seahorses like to eat small shrimp, tiny fish and plankton, but these prefer chocolate covered strawberries ^__^

for the abbreviations I use in this pattern please read here


Charly is worked in classic amigurumi style, which means in a long spiral round, never join a round after finishing one. Also I like my amigurumi to be worked through both loops (whereas I know couple fellow amigurumi makers who prefer the back loop only). So do whatever you like best.


Size | yarn | hook

I used catania yarn from Schachenmayr and my beloved 3.5 mm hook. My Charly seahorse is about 23 cm from top to bottom.

So, your little seahorse will be the size you choose, go with bigger yarn and a bigger hook and you will get a bigger seahorse. If you decide to go smaller, of course your Charly  will be smaller, as easy as this right?


Easy or difficult?

Well, I would think intermediate. I write my patterns stitch by stitch, quite similar to knitting patterns actually. If you are familiar with my patterns you might think this is easy, as you only need the classic single crochet and slip stitch throughout most of the pattern. But it takes concentration so I think intermediate is quite fair 🙂


Final tip!!

use a stitch marker! I never give stitch count at the end of a round. All stitches are written to reach the end of the row. So if you are left with stitches before you reach the end please check you stitches.

I love to use a small piece of scrap yarn (I prefer pearl yarn, it stays unfuzzy pretty long) for marking my rounds. Another plus with scrap yarn, they don’t bulk the stitches around them and I can always choose a contrasting color.

Sooooo, #charlytheseahorse – the pattern:

Head | Body | Tail

1 – – make a double magic ring with 6sts

2 – – m2 x6

3 – – (m2, sc1) x6

4 – – sc1, (m2, sc2) x5, m2, sc1

5 – – (m2, sc3) x6

6 – – sc2, (m2, sc4) x5, m2, sc2

7 – – (m2, sc5) x6

8 – – sc3, (m2, sc6) x5, m2, sc3

make 6 row (sc48)

15 – – sc3, (sc2tog, sc6) x5, sc2tog, sc3

16 – – (sc2tog, sc5), x6

17 – – sc2, (sc2tog, sc4) x5, sc2tog, sc2

18 – – (sc2tog, sc3) x6

19 – – (sc2tog, sc2) x6

20 – – (sc2tog, sc1) x6

make 2 rows (sc12)

23 – – (sc2, m2) x2, sc6

24 – – sc2, m2, sc4, m2, sc6

25 – – sc3, m2, sc4, m2, sc7

26 – – sc4, m2, sc5, m2, sc7

27 – – sc5, (m2, sc2) x2, m2, sc8

28 – – sc5, m2, sc3, m2, sc4, m2, sc2, slst6

29 – – slst3, sc3, (m2, sc4) x2, m2, sc9

30 – – sc7, m2, sc4, m2, sc5, m2, sc5, slst5

31 – – slst3, (sc7, m2) x2, sc13

32 – – (sc10, m2) x2, sc7, slst5

33 – – slst4, sc6, m2, sc6, m2, sc6, m2, sc11

34 – – sc3, m2, sc10, m2, sc8, m2, sc11, m2, sc3

35 – – sc3, m2, sc35, m2, sc3

36 – – sc40, slst5

37 – – slst5, sc11, sc2tog, sc9, sc2tog, sc16

38 – – sc20, sc2tog, sc16, slst5

39 – – slst6, sc10, sc2tog, sc6, sc2tog, sc16

40 – – sc16, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog, sc10, slst5

41 – – slst7, sc8, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc15

42 – – sc11, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc6, slst4

43 – – slst6, sc5, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog, sc9

44 – – sc11, sc2tog x4, sc6, slst3

45 – – slst5, sc5, sc2tog x3, sc8

make 3 rows (sc21)

49 – – sc12, sc2tog, sc7

50 – – sc9, slst7, sc4

make 1 row (sc20)

52 – – sc12, sc2tog, sc6 make 1 row (sc19)

54 – – sc10, slst2, slst2tog, slst2, sc3 make 1 rows (sc18)

56 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc13

57 – – sc9, slst6, sc2

58 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc12

59 – – sc9, slst6, sc1

60 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc11

61 – – sc2, esc4, sc3, slst5, sc1

62 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc10

63 – – sc1, esc5, sc3, slst4, sc1

64 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc9

65 – – sc2, esc3, sc4, slst3, sc1

66 – – sc2, sc2tog, sc9

67 – – sc2, esc3, sc3, slst3, sc1

68 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc7

69 – – sc2, esc3, sc2, slst3, sc1

70 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc6

71 – – sc2, esc3, sc2, slst3

72 – – sc3, sc2tog, sc5

73 – – sc2, esc3, sc2, slst2

74 – – slst1, sc2, sc2tog, sc2, slst2

75 – – slst2, esc4, sc2

76 – – sc7, slst1

77 – – slst2, sc1, esc3, sc1, slst1

78 – – slst2, sc6

79 – – sc4, esc3, sc1

80 – – slst3, sc5

81 – – slst3, sc1, esc3, sc1

82 – – sc8

83 – – sc1, slst3, sc1, esc3

84 – – sc1, slst3, sc4

85 – – sc5, esc3

86 – – esc1, sc1, slst2, sc2, sc2tog

87 – – sc2, slst2, sc2, esc1

88 – – esc1, sc6

89 – – sc2tog, sc5

90 – – sc2




1 – – make a dr with 6 sts

2 – – m2 x6

3 – – (m2, sc1) x6

4 – – (sc2, m2) x6

make 1 row (sc24)

6 – – sc5, (sc2tog, sc2) x2, sc2tog, sc4 (row not finished)


When binding off leave a real long tail, about the length of your arm to sew the snout to the head:

the decreases created a bending in the snout which resembles the top of the snout. Now place the snout to the head in a way that the bended end is on top and the flat end is at the lower side. Use pins to fix the snout in place before you sew it to the head. To sew the snout to the head use the BO yarn end. Secure yarn ends and hide within the seahorse.


Head ‘Pocks’

1 – – make a dr with 6 sts

2 – – m2, sc5


make about 4 (or as many as you like) and add them to the head, all centered and lined up in a row, sew to head, secure and hide yarn ends.


Dorsal Fin

1 – – make a chain with smaller hook: chain 10, change back to normal working hook

2 – – start in 2nd chain from hook: sc8, m3 into last chain, turn to crochet into other side of starting chain, sc8

3 – – sc1, sc2tog, sc5, sc2tog x2, sc5, sc2tog

4 – – sc1, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc1, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog

make 1 row (sc11) BO

Sew to lower back, opposite to belly, below bending of back and above beginning of tail (see front picture). Secure ends and hide them.


Side Fins | “Arms”

make two

1 – – make a chain with smaller hook: chain 6, change back to normal hook size and start in 2nd chain from hook:

2 – – sc4, m3 into last chain, turn to work on other side of starting chain, sc4

3 – – sc1, (sc2tog, sc1) x3, sc1

make 1 row (sc8)

5 – – (sc2, sc2tog) x2

make 1 row (sc6) BO

Sew to side of body, one thumb wide away from dorsal fin.

Secure and hide yarn ends.




1 – – make dr with 6 sts

2 – – m2 x6

3 – – (m2, sc1) x6



1 – – make dr with 6 sts

2 – – m2 x6


Embroider little sparkles onto the dark pupil parts of the eyes. See figure below for guidance. The figure also shows you how to sew both parts of the eye together.


right eye – – left eye


and that’s it  — I hope you enjoyed this mygurumi pattern as much as I do. It’s still one of my favorites!

in case you want to spice up your #charlytheseahorse a little, here are some additional decorative pieces:


use same yarn and hook as Charly (only a different color)

1 – – chain 4 and close to form a ring


2 – – chain 3, sc into 2nd chain from hook, hdc in last chain, sc into ring – repeat 5 times


Sew to body, maybe onto the belly? Or how about right behind one eye?


use same yarn and hook as Charly (maybe a red color way?)

1 – – chain 4 and make all following sts into the first chain from hook:

2 – – trc3, dc3, chain 1, trc1, chain 1, dc3, trc3, slst2



a little note on copyright:
– all my patterns will be available for free from now on (one after the other I will update this site to add all patterns I made so far)
– all my patterns will be posted on the blog in text form (this will take a few weeks until everything is up here, but will come
– it is not allowed to copy any text from this pattern to another website (please read here for further information)
– if you see any part of this pattern on another website please leave me a message
– thanks a lot
– I will start to provide PDF versions again as well sometime soon
(I will need to find a good way to create a donation ware based shop system, where you can pay what you feel appropriate for a pdf version of the above provided pattern) please also read here for further information