so this fair isle pattern really walked a long road, read about it here and here

But now it’s finished and I’m in love. Maybe you will fall in love as well, as who would not love a good portion of frosting?
nice soft cream gently swirling, but wait – it’s not swirling around a good cupcake, it’s wrapping your hat.

This pattern is fantastic for all those self coloring/striping yarns with a long color repeat. I’ve used the same color way twice, it’s Lousia Hardings Amitola yarn in color way 113.

Frosting will also fit any hat and will work with most yarns and needle sizes. You will need your gauge though (but in case you’re lazy 😉 don’t worry you can use the hat as a swatch as we’re starting from the top down and will adjust the circumference with the rounds of increases. Just read more in the „yarns and gauge“ section.

frosting

FROSTING

—— please read the whole section on yarn and gauge to find your size — —

  • yarn and gauge
    – well this hat really can be knit with any yarn and (appropriate) needle size you want.
    you don’t need to adapt your swatch to a certain gauge either – yay 🙂
    But you still would like to know your gauge.
  • I used Amitola by Lousia Harding (color: 113) and with 3.25 mm circular needles my gauge was app. 32 sts per 10cm
  • size: I consider to really measure your head (most adult heads are about 56cm around – mine is too. after checking my gauge – while already knitting – I considered I would increase up to 12 stitches per section. That’s also as to which point this pattern will be written out.
    • with these 12 sts per section and sixteen sections around I would reach a head circumference of about 59 cm. Now normally that would be way to big for a hat, as you want it to fit snuggly around your ears but as this is knitted fair isle style you must know that fair isle is not very stretchy – it won’t give in, so you would need to knit big enough. Also I had the weird sensation that my yarn would surely felt a little, that’s why I knitted even big enough to adapt to this shrinking afterwards as well.
  • Depending on the yarn and needle size you choose you might only want to increase each section for up to 10 sts or even less if you choose thicker yarn (or even more stitches if you go for a thinner yarn)

 

abbreviations
k – knit
k2c – knit 2 contrasting color
k2m – knit 2 main color
m1c – make 1 from the strand between two sts with contrasting color
m1m – make 1 from the strand between two sts with main color
sts – stitches
swyb – slip stitch w/o twisting it to left hand needle with yarn in back and REARRANGE your marker

  • when knitting fair isle style I like to weave in every other stitch, this creates a wonderful inside fabric and you will never tangle yourself in loose

 

pattern

1 – starting with main color _ CO 4 sts with Judys Magic Cast on for small circles
(of course you can use any other CO as well, I happen to adore this CO as it doesn’t leave a hole) – leave an end tail long enough to knit the next 2 round with it
2 – now hold your yarn end and the working yarn together: k4m
(as you’ve held both yarn ends together in knitting 4 sts now you will have 8 loops on your needle, treat them as individual sts during the next round)
3 – hold yarn end and working yarn together: k8m
(as you’ve held both yarn ends together in knitting 8 sts now you will have 16 loops on your needle, treat them as individual sts during the next round)
4 – k16m (I like to knit the first 3 or 4 sts with both yarn ends together as well, this will weave in the end 🙂 – take care to treat these „double loops“ only as 1 stitch during the next round)
5 – (k2m, m1m) x8 (24sts)
6 – (k3m, m1m) x8 (32sts)
start to weave in the contrasting color with the last few sts in this round
7 – (k1m, m1c, k3m) x8 (40sts)
8 – (k1m, k1c, k3m) x8 (40sts)
9 – swyb – (k1c, m1c, k4m) x8 (48sts)
10 – (k2c, k4m) x8
11 – (k2c, k3m, m1m, k1m) x8 (56sts)
12 – (k2c, k5m) x8
13 – swyb – (k1c, m1c, k1c, k5m) x8 (64sts)
14 – (k3c, k5m) x8
15 – swyb – (k3c, k4m, m1m, k1m) x8 (72sts)
16 – (k3c, k6m) x8
17 – swyb – (k2c, m1c, k1c, k6m) x8 (80sts)
18 – (k4c, k6m) x8
19 – swyb – (k4c, k5m, m1m, k1m) x8 (88sts)
20 – (k4c, k7m) x8
21 – swyb – (k3c, m1c, k1c, k7m) x8 (96sts)
22 – (k5c, k7m) x8
23 – swyb – (k5c, k6m, m1m, k1m) x8 (104sts)
24 – (k5c, k8m) x8
25 – swyb – (k4c, m1c, k1c, k8m) x8 (112sts)
26 – (k6c, k8m) x8
27 – swyb – (k6c, k7m, m1m, k1m) x8 (120sts)
28 – (k6c, k9m) x8

I think by now you’ve recognized the pattern repeat 🙂
. slip the first stitch of the round and increase either the contrasting or the main color alternatingly
. knit all stitch as they appear
. once you’ve reached your desired stitch count in the main color just add increases to the contrasting color in the same manner. This way you can adapt the pattern to any yarn or size
. anyways I will write out the pattern until both colors have 12 sts and then show you how to make the colors swirl around

29 – swyb – (k5c, m1c, k1c, k9m) x8 (128sts)
30 – (k7c, k9m) x8
31 – swyb – (k7c, k8m, m1m, k1m) x8 (136sts)
32 – (k7c, k10m) x8
33 – swyb – (k6c, m1c, k1c, k10m) x8 (144sts)
34 – (k8c, k10m) x8
35 – swyb – (k8c, k9m, m1m, k1m) x8 (152sts)
35 – (k8c, k11m) x8
36 – swyb – (k7c, m1c, k1c, k11m) x8 (160sts)
37 – (k9c, k11m) x8
38 – swyb – (k9c, k10m, m1m, k1m) x8 (168sts)
39 – (k9c, k12m) x8
40 – swyb – (k8c, m1c, k1c, k12m) x8 (176sts)
41 – (k10c, k12m) x8
42 – swyb – (k9c, m1c, k1c, k12m) x8 (184sts)
43 – (k11c, k12m) x8
44 – swyb – (k10c, m1c, k1c, k12m) x8 (192sts)
45 – (k12c, k12m) x8

from now on you’ll only want to repeat these three rows:

1 – swyb – (k12c, k12m) x8
2 – swyb – (k12c, k12m) x8
3 – (k12c, k12m) x8

and that’s it – once you reached your desired length bind off 🙂

for an adult beanie I recommend to knit at least until the hat measures 25 cm from top to bottom

 

I hope you will enjoy this hat pattern as much as I do 🙂

Diana

 

___________
a little note on copyright:
– all my patterns will be available for free from now on (one after the other I will update this site to add all patterns I made so far)
– all my patterns will be posted on the blog in text form (this will take a few weeks until everything is up here, but will come
– it is not allowed to copy any text from this pattern to another website (please read here for further information)
– if you see any part of this pattern on another website please leave me a message
– thanks a lot
– I will start to provide PDF versions again as well sometime soon
(I will need to find a good way to create a donation ware based shop system, where you can pay what you feel appropriate for a pdf version of the above provided pattern) please also read herefor further information